Women's Paddleboard

Adventure-seekers from all walks of life descended upon Juneau, Alaska, for the 2019 Women's Paddleboard Adventure. Seven brave women broke away from their everyday routine to explore new sights and heights! They encountered changing winds and tides while viewing fantastic wildlife during the eight-day expedition. Letting go of expectations allowed them to create unforgettable memories—because sometimes you must change course.

Arrival 

Everyone arrived in Juneau, Alaska, on June 14, 2019. They stayed at the luxurious Westmark Baranof Hotel in downtown Juneau. Many dined at the Twisted Fish Company. After dinner, they explored downtown Juneau, viewing local artists' fantastic works. A few checked out the Red Dog Saloon, a Juneau must-see. Others hiked the Perseverance Trail (easy to moderate) or the Mt. Roberts Trail (moderate to strenuous).

Day 1

Our adventure began at 10:00 am at Aurora Harbor. The crew welcomed everyone at the dock and helped participants get their gear aboard Glacier Bear. The captain introduced the crew and provided a boat and safety orientation. Michelle, the paddleboard guide, previewed the eight-day paddling adventure. We had our staterooms assigned, took a tour of the beautiful vessel, and settled into our cabins. Everyone inflated paddleboards, and each person was assigned paddling gear for the week—including wet suits, dry suits, PFDs, boots, and gloves.

Glacier Bear passed below a bridge, cruised south through Gastineau Channel, and we were underway. We were advised that we would have ample opportunity to observe and photograph whales, marine mammals, birds, and other wildlife along our travel route. Traveling by motor yacht, on paddleboards, and by foot would allow us to experience this elaborate ecosystem closely.

We entered Stephens Passage and circled Douglas Island, heading north toward Mansfield Peninsula, the northern point of Admiralty Island. Admiralty Island is a vast wilderness and is preserved as a National Monument. Funter Bay State Marine Park on Admiralty Island is a magnificent reserve that includes beaches, an old-growth forest, a muskeg, and the historic grounds and structures of Point Retreat Light.  

We slowly circumnavigated a buoy to photograph grunting sea lions hauled out on the buoy and watched a solitary eagle perched on top of the buoy. Then we continued around the point and turned south, entering Chatham Strait. Our destination was Funter Bay, on the northwest coast of Admiralty Island. Arriving in Funter Bay in light rain, we dropped anchor and prepared for dinner. And what a treat—fresh halibut crusted with macadamia/panko breadcrumbs. Dinner was fantastic. After dinner, participants geared up for the introductory paddle in Funter Bay.

Although it was still raining, the bay provided the perfect opportunity for Michelle to demonstrate the proper way to disembark from the Glacier Bear and how safely mount a paddleboard in the waters adjacent to the yacht.

One-by-one, participants paddled a short distance away and then grouped up. Everyone practiced their paddling skills in the protected waters of Funter Bay and familiarized themselves with paddling while seated, kneeling, and standing. Michelle also reviewed paddling strokes and cadence. Everyone practiced falling into the water and remounting their paddleboards. They learned about windy or wavy conditions on the water and what to do when paddling conditions deteriorated.

After gaining confidence in their ability to maneuver on the water safely, the group returned to the comfort of the Glacier Bear. Several people explored the onboard library of video games and the stash of enticing board games. Oh my gosh, there’s a hot tub?

FIELD NOTES

• ‍With all the rain, I followed the paddlers in the skiff with my waterproof camera.
• Katie’s automatic PFD was deployed when she practiced falling into the water. She couldn’t figure out how to re-inflate it, so I helped her locate the valve. Eventually, I switched PFDs with her.
• Getting good photographs with so much rain took some work. I decided not to shoot any videos in the driving rain.
• I gave everyone plenty of space to get comfortable on their paddleboards. Afterward, I told Michelle I would need to get closer to get good photos and videos.
• It rained the entire evening. Harbor porpoises appeared in the bay, and their brief appearance amused us.
• We played *Telestration* that evening. Somehow George Washington became a pirate ship. And a turkey became a chicken, which turned into a duck, which was transformed back into… a turkey. We all laughed hysterically. What a blast that game is!

Day 2

We heard the crew in the early morning hours from the comfort of our berths. Neil and Al started the generator and boat engines while the chef prepared salmon quiche, muffins, granola, fresh fruit, and juice. Soon the crew pulled up the anchor, and we were underway. We slowly sailed out of Funter Bay and continued south into Chatham Strait. Our destination was Tenakee Inlet, with a stopover at Pavlov Harbor, nestled within Freshwater Bay on the southeast coast of Chichagof Island. We kept an eye on the shoreline for brown bears along our travel route.

Pavlov Harbor is a photographer’s dream. Brown bears can often be observed fishing in the rapids and small waterfalls of a river that empty into the harbor. Suddenly we encountered several orcas. It was a group of four, including a male with his large dorsal fin, two females, and a juvenile. We observed their behavior as they lingered in the area for several minutes. After they departed to the north, we cruised south. There’s never a paucity of wildlife viewing in Alaska.

We arrived in Pavlov Harbor and enjoyed a tantalizing lunch of vegetable and sausage burritos. Then everyone geared up for an afternoon paddle. Pavlov Harbor was not expansive; people separated into pairs and established a peaceful rhythm. The group paddled to the rapids, hoping to see bears feasting on salmon. But alas, the timing could have been better. We arrived too early for the salmon run that gets the attention of the bears. Everyone paddled for an hour and then returned to the yacht.

Glacier Bear turned west into Tenakee Inlet and approached the quaint community of Tenakee Springs. A visit to this charming community provided a fun getaway. The crew dropped the anchor a short distance from the shore. The women were shuttled in two groups to the seaplane dock, where they disembarked and climbed the ramp. It was a short walk to the General Store and a chance to replenish liquor supplies and chocolate. Surprisingly, the store was well-stocked and offered cases of Alaska Amber Beer, bottles of tequila and vodka, and various packaged goods to support the local community. They even had chocolate-covered almonds! We walked along an unpaved road (there are no cars in Tenakee Springs), passed cabins and small lodges along the boardwalk, and arrived at the small boat harbor, where we returned by skiff to the Glacier Bear.

Our destination was Corner Bay. As the light got lower, brown bears began to appear along the shoreline. They were searching for a quick meal along the beach and quarreled with one another over territorial disputes. One bear chased another for several hundred yards along the shoreline. Michelle hosted her first wine tasting. Dinner was the fresh Dungeness Crab we harvested that morning from the crab traps we set in Funter Bay.

‍FIELD NOTES

• ‍‍I transported everyone via the skiff to the seaplane dock. Two trips. Very windy conditions at the pier.
• Everyone shopped in the General Store (Alaska Amber, vodka, chocolate-covered almonds) and then walked down the boardwalk.
• I piloted the skiff to the small boat harbor, about 0.5 miles from the seaplane dock, and walked in the direction of the group. I took photos and then ferried everyone back to the Glacier Bear.
• We moved the Glacier Bear to Corner Bay for our evening anchorage. There were seven bears on the beach.

Day 3

 We cruised east out of Tenakee Inlet toward Basket Bay along the eastern coast of Chichagof Island. Basket Bay has a secret stone arch only accessible by paddlers at high tide. We kept an eye on the shoreline for brown bears along our travel route. After arriving in Basket Bay, everyone geared up for the morning paddle and exploration. The women hiked for an hour and then returned to the Glacier Bear.

We were quickly underway and soon needed our cameras and binoculars. Humpback whales often catch herring and other small schooling fish using bubble-net feeding. Unique to humpbacks, bubble-net feeding requires a group of whales to work together cooperatively. They gather below large schools of fish, release air bubbles (confusing the fish), and bunch them tightly together. The cylindrical wall of bubbles acts like a net, which the fish are reluctant to swim through. On cue, the entire group surges upward through the bubble net, mouths agape— a dozen or more humpback whales all rising to the surface in unison. Each whale collects a massive mouthful of water and then expels it, straining the fish through their baleen. Often the group will display this feeding behavior repeatedly.

In mid-afternoon, we arrived at Warm Springs Bay. A natural hot spring is located slightly above the powerful rushing waterfall. Baranof is a small boardwalk community within Warm Springs Bay, at the outlet of Baranof Lake and the Baranof River. There are natural outdoor hot pools, a public bathhouse with three separate tubs, and communal hot springs pools. A boardwalk provides easy access through flora and fauna to picturesque Baranof Lake.

The group started with a paddle through a beautiful narrow passage to a salt chuck lagoon. It was time to challenge everyone's paddling skills— the current runs strong here. As paddlers emerged from the narrow access channel into the open lagoon, there was a dramatic change in the landscape. Honestly, it was mystical. We lingered in this Shangri La for an hour until we observed the current starting to build at the entry to the lagoon. One by one, paddlers returned through the narrows to WarmSprings Bay.

Everyone returned to the Glacier Bear, changed out of paddling gear, and grabbed swimsuits (optional) and towels. Most people headed straight for the hot springs or hot tubs. But a couple of stragglers found time to gather wild strawberries and salmon berries along the boardwalk. Back aboard the Glacier Bear, we prepared for another wine tasting. Soon the Chef announced that dinner was ready. Al had a platter of perfectly-cooked filets and placed it on the dining table next to a platter of crab melts.

FIELD NOTES

• ‍I did a reconnaissance flight by drone of Basket Bay, searching for the arch. I got some interesting aerial photos and flew the drone at nearly 300 feet, but I still couldn’t find it.
• The paddlers arrived on shore and worked their way up the creek as far as possible. They got lucky. After a short hike of two hundred yards, they found the arch. It didn’t look the same as in the photos, however. The water level was about twenty feet lower. Ah, no wonder the review had said to come at high tide.
• I trailed the paddlers in the skiff as we entered the lagoon. I mounted a small video camera on a tripod and tied it to the front of the skiff. It worked great. I could control the panning, tilting, and rotation of the camera from my iPhone and still pilot the boat. I captured some great videos of Katie and Ayesha leaving the lagoon.
• The batteries on the video camera died, however. I still haven't figured out how long they last per charge.
  

Day 4

This morning we had Crab Benedict for breakfast. It was everyone’s favorite breakfast. We got underway around 8:00 am and had a short journey to a beautiful destination along the eastern coast of Baranof Island, where we viewed dozens of waterfalls. We entered a long fjord through a narrow waterway dotted with small islets and found ourselves in a secluded jewel. We observed a dozen waterfalls cascading from the heights and a single large waterfall roaring into the fjord. Steep mountains surrounded us.

Our anchorage was near the west end of the fjord. The group had ample opportunity to paddle and explore. Short partner paddles, long exploration paddles, they did it all. They even maneuvered their paddleboards within fifty feet of a massive 2,000’ waterfall. It was a great photo opportunity. Someone suggested it would be awesome to stretch their legs onshore. It was a short distance by paddleboard to the west end of the fjord. Two small streams, separated by a meadow roughly one hundred yards wide, emptied into the fjord.

Around noon, everyone reluctantly returned from paddling and hiking and boarded the Glacier Bear. The Chef surprised us with Halibut sandwiches on a brioche bun and an enticing salad of watermelon, fresh basil, and feta cheese.

Soon we were heading toward Pybus Bay on the southeast coast of Admiralty Island. We crossed Chatham Straight and continued east through Frederick Sound. We passed Murder Cove and beautiful Chapin Bay along the southern shore of Admiralty Island. A small pod of orcas showed us their large dorsal fins as they cruised swiftly past us. When they surfaced, we could smell their fishy breath through their blowholes.

We paused for a fast-moving pod of Dall's porpoises that finally noticed us and intercepted our course. They joyfully rode our bow wake, darting in and out, and everyone had their iPhones in hand, filming the experience.

The Glacier Bear arrived in Pybus Bay late in the afternoon, and we prepared for a shore hike before dinner. We caught a glimpse of brown bears fishing in a nearby salmon-filled stream. With the largest concentration of nesting bald eagles in the world, Admiralty Island offers many chances to see Canadian geese, trumpeter swans, pigeon guillemots, cormorants, and blue herons in the habitat sof forest, muskeg, meadows, and along the shore. 

The feeling while ashore was one of excitement and danger. Our guide had pepper spray, and several people carried air horns. We wanted to see bears up close, but tonight was not our night. Still, we jumped for joy in our photos. Arriving at the Glacier Bear, the Chef announced that dinner was ready. We enjoyed sockeye salmon with a honey, basil, and garlic glaze. Delicious. Several people wandered to the flybridge deck and jumped into the hot tub after dinner. The sounds of Latin music and happy, dancing women lingered into the night.

FIELD NOTES

• ‍I launched the drone from the skiff and changed the maximum distance the drone could fly from my position to 600 meters (about 2,000 feet). I was quite far from the paddlers who were watching the waterfalls.
• Deborah did a fantastic headstand in front of the waterfall. I was able to capture it with my video camera.
• Aerial photos and video from the skiff looked excellent, especially when the paddlers were near the shore.
• I had to end the drone flight before the waterfall sooner than planned as the rain increased to a steady downpour.
• It rained the rest of the afternoon. I had to wipe off the video camera's lens (mounted on the skiff) every 3-4 minutes. I could capture good video for a minute, and then a raindrop would hit the lens. But a pause in the rain let me grab some excellent video while trailing Michelle and Amy in the skiff.
• Four brown bears wandered through the meadows—two cubs with a sow, and another single bear about 100 meters away, near some boulders.
• A dramatic evening sky appeared just as a small group in the skiff set out crab traps in the bay.

‍Day 5

Glacier Bear paused to observe a colony of Steller sea lions crowded onto the rocks of a small island on our way toward Ford’s Terror. The males vied noisily for dominance over their harems. The sounds of grunting sea lions and screeching eagles drifted across the morning calm.

Beautiful, remote, and protected from outer waters, our stop at a small cove near Sail Island provided a pristine sanctuary—and the perfect place for a paddle. During an extra-low tide here, anemones gleam brilliantly. The shore was strewn with a profusion of blue gentians, Indian paintbrush, river beauties, lupine, and other colorful wildflowers.

We were soon heading toward the entrance to Ford’s Terror Wilderness. Two fjords provide access to the wilderness area—Tracy Arm and Endicott Arm. We planned to visit both. As we passed Five Finger Islands Light, another fast-moving group of Dall's porpoises graced us with their presence. We watched for whales, orcas, and shorebirds throughout the day.

We planned to arrive at Wood Spit at slack tide. It’s the optimal time to proceed through the often turbulent entry at Endicott Arm. We watched for drifting icebergs, humpback whales, and orcas along the way. Suddenly a pod of orcas appeared near the spit. These orcas were feasting on the salmon in the whirlpools caused by the massive volume of water moving in and out of Endicott Arm.

We passed the Sumdum Islands, cast aside centuries ago in the wake of the retreating Dawes Glacier, and entered Ford’s Terror in the early evening. One mesmerizing waterfall after another entered our view, cascading down the side of the mountains and cliffs. Glacier Bear slowly moved through the water, hugging oh-so-closely to the steep granite walls. We settled into a cove near the rapids of Ford’s Terror, surrounded by ridges cloaked in mist-covered rainforest. It was an idyllic paradise.

Our evening anchorage provided an excellent opportunity for a quiet paddle in the turquoise-blue waters, followed by a tasty dinner of Black Cod. Black bears often visit the area near our anchorage, grazing on the abundance of berries in the meadows and fishing for salmon in the stream. With each passing day, wonder and amazement continued to build.  

FIELD NOTES

• ‍Two drone accidents in one day. The first involved taking off from the flybridge while the yacht was drifting. That’s not a good idea.
• The second one involved traveling too far from the original takeoff location. Radio contact with the drone was lost, even though the drone was within one hundred meters of the Glacier Bear.
• We returned to the actual takeoff location, and radio contact was re-established.‍
• ‍Dall’s porpoises are everywhere! We started with two porpoises, then spotted a much larger group about two hundred meters away. They quickly joined in the fun.
• One hour later, a third group appeared from nowhere and stayed with us for several additional minutes.
• Excellent light for flying the drone over the Glacier Bear at Ford’s Terror. I took videos of four ladies who were in the hot tub drinking wine.

Day 6

An early morning departure took us deep into Endicott Arm, a narrow fjord that twists and turns through towering mountains. Massive glaciers have carved their way through these coastal mountains. Waterfalls cascade thousands of feet off the granite mountains. Sapphire-blue icebergs serenely floated by in the emerald-green water. We continued to the Dawes Glacier at the ice-choked end of the fjord. Extraordinarily blue and beautiful, this glacier is famous for its active calving, and we lingered at the face of the glacier, hoping to witness gigantic towers of ice breaking away.

The group of women planned to paddle through the iceberg-laden waters. Dry suits were necessary for this paddle. We had a morning fitting while underway to our destination. Everyone paddled among the icebergs and observed the antics of dozens of harbor seals hauled out on the ice. The glacier continued rumbling and thundering. Like the early explorers here before us, the majesty and awe of this ice-carved landscape are etched into our memories.

We retraced our route back to Fords Terror, one of the most spectacular destinations in Alaska. We hoped to explore several places in the inner fjord by paddleboard. Once again, it was all about timing. We entered Ford’s Terror at slack tide and could only remain for an hour. The strong current builds quickly, and standing waves could block our escape. An early area surveyor named Ford described the standing waves in chilling terms. Hence the name “Ford’s Terror.” 

The group cautiously paddled along the shoreline of the inner fjord toward the T-shaped terminus. We were in a vertical world of granite cliffs and glacier-carved cirques. Dozens of waterfalls cascaded down their slopes, emptying into the turquoise waters of the fjord. Surrounded by 3,500’ granite faces, we marveled at the mist clinging to the precipices. We made our way back before the tidal rapids gained too much power, leaving behind the majestic and stunning inner fjord.

We still had one more scenic wonder to visit today. We proceeded to Sanford Cove, the abandoned site of the mining community of Sumdum. Nothing remains of the town other than a few pilings. This is prime salmon-spawning habitat, luring brown bears to the area. Black bears are also on the prowl, feasting on abundant berries. We hiked along the bank of tiny Sanford Creek through an old-growth Sitka spruce and Douglas fir forest. We discovered a stunning waterfall illuminated by the late afternoon light in a remarkable grotto of ferns and mosses. It was breathtaking and the perfect location for a group photo. 

And suddenly, it was after 6:00 pm. We cruised to our evening anchorage in No Name Cove and enjoyed dinner while underway. And what a feast—halibut, risotto, and asparagus. With boysenberry pie and ice cream for dessert. We arrived in No Name Cove around 8 :00 pm. It was a beautiful evening, with many boats on anchor nestled snuggly within the cove. Music and dancing emanated from the flybridge as the sun slowly slipped behind the mountains.

FIELD NOTES

• ‍It was a foggy morning in Ford’s Terror. I got excellent photos with highly saturated colors of gear and paddleboards.‍
• ‍The group paddled around two large icebergs at Dawes Glacier. The best videos came from the skiff, following the paddlers by about 10-12’ or leading them by the same distance.
• However, filming the paddlers near the icebergs was challenging since I had to pause frequently to ensure I didn’t hit any significant icebergs!
• I followed the paddlers into the inner fjord on the skiff. The video camera worked great filming from behind, from the side, and in front of the paddlers.
• We had to recover the paddlers with the Glacier Bear. The current at the entry to Ford's Terror was getting very strong. The skiff almost got swamped crossing the wake of the Glacier Bear. Big splash. Don’t tell Captain Neil.
• Powerful waves had already built as we exited the rapids at Ford’s Terror. Whirlpools continued for a couple of hundred meters beyond the entrance. Good call, Captain!
• Harbor porpoises and harbor seals joined our group while paddling in the cove at Ford’s Terror. A hummingbird was attracted to a bouquet on the bow of the Glacier Bear.

‍‍
Day 7

The scenery changed dramatically as we slowly slipped by the granite cliffs enclosing Tracy Arm, a narrow fjord that wound its way through towering mountains. The mountains here seemed more barren, evidence that this fjord was carved more recently than Endicott Arm. Fewer waterfalls cascaded off the granite mountains, although they were still spectacular. Hundreds of icebergs serenely floated by in the blue-green water.

We continued toward the Sawyer Glacier at the end of the fjord. This glacier was more impressive than the Dawes Glacier. The paddlers geared up and departed the safety of Glacier Bear. They teamed up with their paddling partners and worked their way closer to the face of the glacier, hoping to witness active calving. It was a tantalizing world of ice, and we were drawn forward cautiously. Our guide Michelle set distance parameters for the paddlers, keeping them well away from the danger zone. As massive chunks of ice broke away from the face of the glacier, we marveled at their size and impact. Eventually, the volume of water they displaced built into a series of rolling waves, and paddlers dropped down to their knees and rode it out safely.

After a couple of hours of spectacular paddling among the smaller icebergs, we gathered one last time directly in front of a gigantic iceberg for a final group photo. And then it was time to begin the final journey home. We boarded the Glacier Bear and turned towards civilization. Our evening destination was Taku Harbor, a natural, bowl-shaped harbor once home to a significant salmon cannery. Commercial fishing boats and small tour ships frequently use the harbor as a night anchorage.

We explored the small cabins and abandoned buildings in Taku Harbor and geared up for a quiet, reflective paddle inside the safe, protected waters. It was a fantastic week of new friends, complex challenges, and unparalleled exploration and adventure. In the evening, we celebrated the many memories we shared.

FIELD NOTES

• ‍Clear and sunny day. The group paddled around an impressive large iceberg near the Sawyer Glacier.
• I got some excellent video from the skiff, following the paddlers by about 10-12’ or leading them by the same distance.
• As previously noted, filming the paddlers near icebergs was more challenging since I had to pause frequently to ensure I didn’t hit anything.
• While in Tracy Arm, I followed the paddlers on the skiff. The video camera again worked well in filming from behind, from the side, and in front of the paddlers.
• However, the video clips were generally shorter, as the skiff frequently bumped into numerous small chunks of ice.
• Deborah had one last opportunity to do a paddleboard headstand and nailed it!
• There were lots of commercial tour boats in Tracy Arm.
• Marie somehow got separated from the group. She was a little bit testy when we finally caught up with her.

Day 8

Our eight-day adventure concluded today. The chef prepared a salmon quiche and lots of tasty leftovers. We enjoyed breakfast while watching a slideshow of the week’s highlights. It was a fantastic week.

We finally began our cruise back to the comforts of Juneau. We headed north through Stephens Passage and docked right where we started at Aurora Harbor in downtown Juneau. We arrived at noon, so two participants could catch an afternoon flight.

Departure

Juneau's scenic community, wedged between forested mountains and Alaska's Inside Passage waters, is the third-most populous city in Alaska (after Anchorage and Fairbanks). There was plenty to see while in Juneau, especially in the historic downtown district. I caught an Alaska Airlines flight from Juneau the following day, with connections to Seattle. Those who remained in town joined the crew for Happy Hour at McGivney's Sports Bar and Grill at theFour Points by Sheraton.