Alaska Photography

The Alaska Photography Workshop was a unique opportunity to learn from professionals and capture stunning images in the wilds of Alaska. This workshop was an all-inclusive, eight-day experience for photographers of all skill levels. We received hands-on instruction from top landscape and wildlife photographers, and spent time exploring some of Alaska's most beautiful locations. If you're looking for an unforgettable photography adventure, look no further than Alaska Wilderness Charters. Their luxurious yacht provides the perfect mobile base for an Alaskan adventure of a lifetime, with experienced guides and unbeatable access to wildlife.

Arrival

I arrived in Juneau, Alaska, two days before the trip departure on June 26, 2018. I spent both nights at Pearson’s Pond near the Mendenhall Glacier.

After settling into the luxurious bed and breakfast, I explored downtown, Juneau. The fish tacos at Deckhand Dave's, served from Dave's Taco Truck on Franklin Street, were excellent. I also browsed through several art galleries and gift shops. A great selection of work by talented local artists was on offer. 

If you have time and are looking for a wilderness activity, my favorite hiking trails were the Perseverance Trail (easy to moderate) and the Mt. Roberts Trail (moderate to strenuous). Ask your hotel concierge for directions to the trailhead.

The night before our departure, our group of eight met for a dinner of fresh seafood, including halibut, salmon, and Dungeness crab, at the Twisted Fish Company on Franklin Street. We saw Wyatt Earp's pistol at the Red Dog Saloon after dinner. Legend has it he briefly passed through the gold mining town of Juneau with his wife Josephine on their way to Nome. Earp unintentionally left this valuable sidearm, a Smith & Wesson No. 3 revolver, at the Red Dog Saloon. It remains a popular tourist attraction.

Day 1

Our journey began at 10:00 am at Aurora Harbor. The crew welcomed us at the dock and helped everyone get their gear aboard Glacier Bear. Captain Neil Nickerson introduced the team and provided a boat and safety orientation. We had our staterooms assigned, took a tour of the beautiful vessel, settled into our cabins, and began our journey.

We sailed south through Gastineau Channel, passing the cruise ships docked in Juneau, and cruised into the heart of the Inside Passage. We're told we’ll have the opportunity to hike along secluded beaches, paddle in scenic coves, and photograph whales, orcas, bears, eagles, Dall's porpoises, and more. Traveling by motor yacht, via motorized skiff, in kayaks, and on foot lets us intimately experience this elaborate ecosystem.

We continued heading south through Stephens Passage, stopping at Taku Harbor, a natural, bowl-shaped harbor once home to a significant salmon cannery. The 700-acre marine park is located on the eastern shore of Stephens Passage, about 22 miles southeast of Juneau. The harbor is a frequent night anchorage for commercial fishing boats and small tour ships.

We spent an hour exploring the small cabins and abandoned buildings in Taku Harbor. It was a fantastic start to a week of new friends, challenges, and unparalleled scenery on our 500-mile journey. Our destination this evening was a small cove nestled safely inside Holkham Bay. Arriving in light rain, we dropped anchor and prepared for dinner. And what a treat — fresh halibut crusted with macadamia/panko breadcrumbs. Our anchorage provided an excellent opportunity for a beautiful evening paddle in tandem kayaks. After dinner, we checked out the onboard library of videos and the "stash" of enticing board games.

Day 2

We awoke to a cacophony of activity from the comfort of our berths. The crew started the generator and boat engines while the chef prepared salmon quiche, muffins, granola, fresh fruit, and juice. Soon we pulled anchor, and Glacier Bear was underway.

We made slack tide across Wood Spit and entered Endicott Arm. En route, I watched for drifting icebergs, humpback whales, and orcas. We stopped at Sanford Cove, the abandoned site of the mining community of Sumdum. Only a few decaying pilings remain from the turn of the century outpost. This prime salmon-spawning habitat lures brown bears to the area. Black bears are on the prowl, too, feasting on abundant berries. We hiked along the bank of tiny Sanford Creek, through an old-growthSitka spruce and Douglas fir forest, and discovered a stunning waterfall, illuminatedby the morning light, in a picturesque grotto of ferns and mosses. It was impressive—and the perfect location for a photo!

Around noon we arrived at a small cove in one of the most spectacular destinations in Alaska—the entry to Ford’s Terror. There are several enticing locations to explore by skiff, kayak, and foot. We were in a vertical world of granite cliffs and glacier-carved cirques. Dozens of waterfalls cascade down their slopes, emptying into the turquoise waters of the fjord. Surrounded by 3,500-foot granite faces, we marveled at the mist clinging to the precipices. 

Our anchorage was in a tranquil cove near a delightful waterfall. Black bears often visit the area, grazing on the abundance of berries in the meadows and fishing for salmon in the stream. And what a dinner we enjoyed! Sockeye salmon, risotto, and asparagus. With boysenberry pie and ice cream for dessert!

Day 3

After a hearty breakfast, a couple of adventurous souls joined me, and we explored the shoreline by kayak. With so many waterfalls cascading down the granite cliffs and tidal pools filled with anemones and sea stars, it was a good decision.

Today was an action-filled day! Our cruise took us deep into the Endicott Arm, a narrow fjord that twists and turns through towering cliffs. Massive glaciers have carved their way through these coastal mountains. Waterfalls cascade thousands of feet, and one looks like stair-steps. Sapphire-blue icebergs serenely float by in the murky emerald-green water. We continued to the Dawes Glacier at the ice-choked end of the fjord. Extraordinarily blue and beautiful, this glacier is famous for its active calving, and we lingered at the glacier’s face, hoping to witness gigantic columns of ice breaking away.

While cruising among the icebergs, we observed the antics of dozens of harbor seals hauled out on the ice. Like the explorers here before us, the majesty and awe of this ice-carved landscape are now etched into our memories.

After lunch, we reversed directions and retraced our journey, heading west from Dawes Glacier toward the entry of Fords Terror, one of the most spectacular destinations in Alaska. We entered Ford’s Terror at slack tide and began our exploration of the inner fjord. We were advised that the incoming current increases exceptionally quickly at the narrow entry, and standing waves could block our escape if we lingered too long.

Mindful of this hazard, we cautiously explored Ford's Terror and slowly maneuvered to the T-shaped terminus. We were in a vertical world of granite cliffs and glacier-carved cirques. Dozens of waterfalls emptied into the turquoise waters of the fjord. We marveled at the mist clinging to the precipices. We reluctantly cruised back to the entry before the massive tidal rapids blocked the exit, and left behind the majestic and stunning inner fjord.

Our destination was a small cove nestled inside Holkham Bay. The evening light was beautiful as we dodged icebergs and retraced our way into the bay and our evening anchorage.

Aboard the Glacier Bear, the chef announced that dinner was prepared, and a platter of perfectly cooked filets was placed on the dining table next to a platter of crab melts. Drinks and steaks (plus a fantastic dessert) were the exclamation point to a phenomenal day.

Day 4

This morning we enjoyedCrab Benedict (the captain’s favorite). We were underway by 8:00 am for our journey past The Brothers, a group of small islands near the southeast coast of Admiralty Island. The scenery changed abruptly after we left behind the granite cliffs of Endicott Arm.

We watched for Humpback whales, Steller sea lions, Dall’s porpoises, orcas, and sea birds throughout the day. We continued toward Admiralty Island, known for its dense bear population. We passed and paused to view a colony of Steller sea lions crowded on the rocks near tiny Sail Island. The males vied noisily for dominance over their harems. Beautiful, remote, and protected from outer waters, this small island was a pristine sanctuary. Soon we were underway, heading for a close-up look at another colony of Steller sea lions crowded on the rocks of one of the outer islands that comprise The Brothers.

We hoped to see fast-moving pods of Dall's porpoises throughout the day. Finally, one group noticed us, and they intercepted our course. Porpoises joyfully rode our bow wake, darting in and out, and everyone had their iPhones in hand, filming the experience.

As we continued cruising, we were also looking for humpback whales. In the distance, we saw a solitary whale lunge feeding, breaking the surface at a low angle, mouth fully open, and throat cavity expanded like an accordion to collect all the fish it could swallow by the lunging maneuver.

This evening we anchored at Scenery Cove, an idyllic setting within Pybus Bay. The sounds of nature drifted in across the evening calm. Beautiful, remote, and protected from outer waters, Scenery Cove is a pristine wilderness. We caught a glimpse of brown bears fishing in a nearby salmon-filled stream. With a large concentration of nesting bald eagles, Admiralty Island also offers a chance to see Canadian geese, trumpeter swans, cormorants, and blue herons in the habitats of forest, muskeg, and meadows.

Our group took a short hike before dinner. The feeling while ashore was one of excitement and danger. Our guide had pepper spray, and several people carried air horns. We wanted to take photos of bears up close—or did we? But it didn't matter; it was not our night. Still, we jumped for joy in our photos.

Returning to the Glacier Bear, the chef announced that dinner was ready. We had sockeye salmon with honey, basil, and garlic glaze. Delicious. After dinner, several people wandered to the flybridge deck and got into the hot tub. The sounds of Latin music and happy dancers lingered into the night.

Day 5

After a relaxed breakfast, Glacier Bear was underway once again. We had a long transit today, cruising west through Frederick Sound, hugging the southern coast of Admiralty Island. A small pod of humpback whales joined us, showing us their tail flukes and loudly slapping the water with their pectoral flippers. We smelled their fishy breath as they surfaced and spouted through their blowholes. We watched another larger pod of humpback whales as we neared Chatham Strait. This group was bubble-net feeding, swimming in circles while blowing bubbles to form a curtain to corral a mass of tiny fish. They broke the surface in unison, mouths fully open, and their throat cavities expanded like a giant accordion to collect as many small fish as possible.

We were soon cruising again, pointing toward our anchorage at the small settlement of Baranof Warm Springs.  Beautiful, remote and protected from outer waters, Baranof Island features dozens of waterfalls cascading along the eastern coast. We entered Warm Springs Bay, with a natural hot spring situated adjacent above a thunderous waterfall. We enjoyed the public bathhouse featuring three separate tubs and the communal hot springs pools. A boardwalk hike took us through flora and fauna to picturesque Baranof Lake.

Before dinner, we paddled kayaks through a beautiful narrow passage to a salt chuck lagoon. We timed our arrival for high slack tide and quickly paddled through the narrows into the lagoon. As we entered, the landscape changed dramatically. It seemed mystical. We lingered within this Shangri La for an hour until we observed the lagoon starting to empty. Then we rode the current back through the narrows to Warm Springs Bay.

We saw the GlacierBear tied up at the Baranof dock with a dozen or more fishing and sailing boats. It was a perfect opportunity to pose for photos in front of the massive waterfall that drains Baranof Lake into Warm Springs Bay. Aboard the Glacier Bear, we enjoyed a glass of wine and a tasty dinner of Black Cod. Black bears often visit the area near our anchorage, grazing on the abundance of berries in the meadows and fishing for salmon in the stream. With each passing day, wonder and amazement continued to build. Such anticipation for each unfolding day. What's in store for tomorrow?

Day 6

As you might have guessed, today was another action-filled day! We continued north up Chatham Strait and soon needed our cameras and binoculars. On cue, a nearby group of humpback whales abruptly surged upward, mouths agape— a dozen or more humpback whales rising to the surface in unison. Each whale collected a massive mouthful of water and then expelled it, straining the fish through their baleen. This particular pod of whales displayed this dramatic feeding behavior repeatedly.

Eventually, the activity subsided, and we continued toward today’s destination. Suddenly we encountered a small pod of orcas. It was a group of four, including a male with his large dorsal fin, two females, and a juvenile. We observed their behavior as they lingered in the area for 15 to 20 minutes. There’s never a paucity of wildlife viewing in Alaska!

An hour later, more distant humpback whales made their presence known. A few were near enough that the boat swung in their general direction. We entered a channel between Baranof Island and Chichagof Island and sailed west into Peril Strait. Not named for its navigational challenges; instead, it got its name from an unfortunate occurrence in 1799 when nomadic Aleut hunters stopped to camp there. Finding the shore lined with large mussels, they helped themselves to a fabulous feast—unfortunately, the mussels, infected with paralytic shellfish poisoning, poisoned and killed over a hundred Aleuts.

Next, we explored Lake Eva on the northern shore of Baranof Island. We walked along a forest trail, stepping over tracks left by passing brown bears in the soft mud, and paused to admire the abundance of mosses, ferns, and small flowering plants. Giant hemlock, Sitka spruce, and cedar trees flourish due to the ample rainfall. We spotted a coastal brown bear at a distance, grazing on newly sprouted grasses. He quickly retreated into the forest, perhaps spooked by our approach.

And suddenly, it was 6:00 pm. Where did the day go? Our evening was spent at a quiet anchorage in Appleton Cove, dining on Dungeness Crab with a fruit torte for dessert.

Day 7

Glacier Bear was underway early and cruised through the Sergius Narrows in Peril Strait. The shore seemed close enough to touch, and a powerful current flowed through the channel markers. Periodically the surface of the water was broken by the splash of a leaping silver salmon. We scanned the shoreline for Sitka black-tailed deer, elk, moose, and black and brown bears. As we entered the Narrows, we powered through the strong current.

Beautiful invertebrates live in these challenging tidal cycles. The colorful sunflower star, the largest and fastest-moving sea star in Southeast Alaska, can move up to six feet per minute! Almost three feet across, its rays break easily and then regenerate. It is so aggressive that even the lethargic red sea cucumber will gallop away when the sunflower star approaches.

We cruised throughSalisbury Sound and arrived at anchorage in Kalinin Bay. Several playful sea otters paddled slowly past us as we navigated the narrow entrance to the bay. This afternoon we explored the pristine Alaskan wilderness on Kruzof Island. Sealion Cove Trail is an ambitious hike through forest and muskeg to a lovely white sand beach on the Pacific Ocean. Big winter waves constantly break on the sculpted rocks, reminiscent of Maine's shoreline. Locals come here to test their surfing skills in the extreme surf of the outer coast. But it's also a superb location for beach combing, hiking, photography, relaxing in the sand, or simply taking in the views. After an hour of spectacular exploration, we gathered in front of the Pacific Ocean for another group photo.

As the light dimmed on our return hike, brown bears appeared in meadows, estuaries, and along the shoreline. They were searching for a quick meal. One bear chased another along the shore. Arriving at the Glacier Bear, we realized our journey was nearing completion. We enjoyed our quiet anchorage in Kalinin Bay in the evening, dining on Rack of Lamb. After dinner, we celebrated the many memories we shared.

Day 8

Our eight-day photo adventure concluded today. A light breeze filled in out of the north as we cruised quietly into the protected waters of Olga and Neva Straits. We entered Sitka Channel on our way to Eliason Harbor. The chef prepared a salmon quiche and lots of tasty goodies. We enjoyed breakfast while watching a slideshow of the week's highlights. We arrived in Sitka at noon and disembarked from Glacier Bear after saying goodbye to the captain and crew.

Our group of workshop participants reunited for happy hour in the lobby of the Westmark Sitka. After a fantastic meal, we were each on our way. Alaska Airlines offers flights from Sitka, with connections to Juneau or Seattle.

Departure

Sitka is the former capital of Alaska and is most beautiful seaside community, with views of island-studded waters and stately spruce forests reaching the water's edge. The scenic community is tucked between forested mountains and the great Pacific Ocean and offers an unparalleled combination of arts, Native culture, Russian history, and Alaskan wilderness.

With the highest saltwater sport-fishing catch rate for king salmon in the United States, novice or expert can be guaranteed a first-class fish story! Fishing is best from June through August, and commonly hooked fish include King salmon, silver salmon, pink salmon, halibut, and ling cod. You can purchase a fishing license at one of several sporting goods stores in Sitka.

Visit the Alaskan Raptor Center for a close encounter with the local wildlife. The Center does excellent work rehabilitating injured birds of prey—especially bald eagles—and retrains them for their return to the wild. The flight training center includes a massive indoor coastal rainforest, large enough for rehabilitating eagles to regain their flying skills without leaving the facility.