Around Admiralty Island

Day One

Our journey begins at 10:00 am at Aurora Harbor. The crew will welcome you at the dock and will help you get your gear aboard Glacier Bear. The Captain will introduce the crew and provide a boat and safety orientation. The paddleboard guide will preview the eight-day paddling adventure. We will have your staterooms assigned, take a tour of the beautiful vessel, settle into our cabins, and begin our journey.

After departing the harbor, we'll cruise south through Gastineau Channel, and we're underway. We'll have ample opportunity to observe and photograph whales, marine mammals, birds, and other wildlife along our route of travel. Traveling by motor yacht, on paddleboards, and by foot allows us to experience this elaborate ecosystem closely.

Eagle on Buoy

We enter Stephens Passage and continue to circle Douglas Island, heading north to Mansfield Peninsula, the northern point of Admiralty Island. Admiralty Island is a vast wilderness and a National Monument. The Funter Bay State Marine Park on Admiralty Island is a magnificent reserve that includes beaches, old-growth forest, muskeg and fen, and the historic grounds and structures of Point Retreat Light.
 We'll slowly circumnavigate a buoy to photograph grunting sea lions hauled out on the buoy and watch a solitary eagle perched on top of the buoy. Then we’ll continue around the point and turn south, entering Chatham Strait. Our destination this evening is Funter Bay, on the northwest coast of Admiralty Island. 

Arriving in Funter Bay in light rain, we drop anchor and prepare for dinner. And what a treat—fresh halibut crusted with macadamia/panko bread crumbs. Dinner (as always) is incredible. After dinner, we have a chance to paddle in Funter Bay. 

After gaining confidence in our ability to maneuver on the water safely, we'll return to the comfort of the Glacier Bear. We'll explore the onboard library of video games and the "stash" of enticing board games. Oh my gosh, there's the hot tub? And did we mention wine and beer? Yeah, there's that too—so many choices.

Day Two

From our berths' comfort, we hear the crew beginning their day in the early morning hours. Neil and Al start the generator and boat engines while the Chef prepares salmon quiche, muffins, granola, fresh fruit, and juice. Yummy! Soon the crew pulls up the anchor, and we're underway.

Brown Bear, Pavlov Harbor

We slowly sail south out of Funter Bay and continue south in Chatham Strait. Our destination is Pavlov Harbor, nestled within Freshwater Bay on the southeast coast of Chichagof Island. Along our route of travel, we’ll keep an eye on the shoreline for brown bears. Pavlov Harbor is a photographer’s dream. Any number of brown bears can often be observed fishing in the rapids and small waterfalls of a river that empties into the harbor.

Suddenly we encounter a pod of orcas. It's a group of three or four, including a male with his large dorsal fin, one or two females, and a juvenile. We observe their behavior as they linger in the area for 15 to 20 minutes. After the pod of orcas departs to the north, we continue cruising to the south. But there's never a scarcity of wildlife viewing in Alaska. An hour later, humpback whales begin to make their presence known. Some are near enough that the boat swings in their general direction. Others are far off in the distance. But always exciting.

Arriving in Pavlov Harbor State Marine Park, we have a tempting lunch of vegetable and sausage burritos. Then we gear up for our afternoon paddle. Pavlov Harbor is not expansive, but we've got plenty of room to separate into pairs and establish our peaceful rhythm. First, we'll paddle to the rapids and falls, with hopes to see bears feasting on salmon. But alas, our timing is not good today. Perhaps we're too early for the salmon run that gets the attention of bears? We continue to paddle for an hour before returning to the Glacier Bear.

Tenakee Springs

By mid-afternoon, the Glacier Bear has turned west into Tenakee Inlet, and we approach the quaint community of Tenakee Springs. A visit to this charming community provides a fun getaway. The crew drops the anchor of Glacier Bear a short distance from the shore. We're shuttled by boat in two groups to the seaplane dock, where we disembark and climb the ramp. It's a short walk to the General Store—our last chance to assess and replenish our "personal" liquor supply. The store has lots of choices, including cases of Alaska Amber Beer, bottles of tequila and vodka, and various packaged goods to support the local community. They even have chocolate-covered almonds! We'll hang out with local artists at the café and (if our schedule permits) soak in the 105-degree therapeutic hot springs. Then we'll walk the length of an unpaved road (there are no cars in Tenakee Springs), past cabins and small lodges along the boardwalk, to the small boat harbor, where we're picked up by our skiff for the short ride back to the Glacier Bear.

Our destination this evening is Corner Bay (just past Kadashan Bay). As the light gets lower, brown bears begin to appear along the shoreline. They are searching for a quick meal along the beach and occasionally quarrel with one another over "territorial disputes." One bear chases another for several hundred yards along the coast. Probably a sow was driving an adolescent male away from her cubs. Dinner this evening is the fresh Dungeness Crab we gathered this morning from the crab traps we set in Funter Bay. If you're happy and you know it, clap your hands!

Day Three

After a hearty breakfast this morning, we'll start our day cruising east out of Tenakee Inlet. But first, we'll do a little exploration for new paddling opportunities along the coast. One such gem we recently discovered is Basket Bay, a "secret" stone arch that is only accessible by paddlers at high tide.

Humpback Whale

We’re quickly underway, and soon we'll need our cameras and binoculars. In this area of Chatham Strait, humpback whales often catch herring and other small schooling fish using a technique called bubble-net feeding. Unique to humpbacks, bubble-net feeding requires a group of whales to work together cooperatively. They gather and form up below large fish schools and begin releasing bubbles, confusing the fish and bunching them tightly together. The cylindrical wall of bubbles acts like a net, which fish are reluctant to swim through. On cue, the entire group surges upward through the bubble net, mouths agape—a dozen or more humpback whales all rising to the surface in unison. Each whale collects a massive mouthful of water and then expels it, straining the fish through their baleen. Often the group will display this feeding behavior over and over again.

By mid-afternoon, we arrive at Warm Springs Bay. A natural hot spring is located slightly above the powerful rushing waterfall. Baranof is a small boardwalk community within Warm Springs Bay, at Baranof Lake and the Baranof River. There are natural outdoor hot pools and a public bathhouse, which features three separate tubs and communal hot springs pools. A boardwalk takes us through flora and fauna to picturesque Baranof Lake.

We're excited to experience it all, but first, how about a paddle through a beautiful narrow passage to a salt chuck lagoon? It's time to challenge our paddling skills—the current runs strong here. We've timed our arrival for the high slack tide so that we can easily paddle through the narrows into the lagoon. As we enter, there's a dramatic change in the landscape. It's mystical. But we'll save that surprise. We plan to linger in this Shangri La for an hour or so until we observe the lagoon starting to empty. Then we'll ride the current building back through the narrows and return to Warm Springs Bay.

Warm Springs Bay

We see the Glacier Bear, the Baranof dock with a dozen or more fishing boats and sailing boats tied up, the boardwalk, the hot tubs, and of course Baranof Falls. It's the perfect opportunity to pose for photos in front of the thunderous waterfall that drains Baranof Lake into Warm Springs Bay. But already, a couple of paddlers are requesting a dip in the hot springs. Decisions, decisions.

Eventually, we return to the Glacier Bear, change out of our paddling gear, and grab a swimsuit (optional) and towel. Two groups shuttle by boat to the dock. Most people head straight for the hot springs or hot tubs. A couple of stragglers find time to gather wild strawberries and salmonberries along the boardwalk. Hey, what's the rush?

Aboard the Glacier Bear, we prepare for another wine tasting. What a perfect way to slow things down. Soon the Chef announces that dinner is ready. Al has a platter of perfectly cooked filets and places it on the dining table, right next to another platter of crab melts. Hmm. So there's a grille hiding under the black cover next to the hot tub? Al's secret grille.

Everyone seems quiet this evening during and after dinner. Wine and steaks (plus a fantastic dessert) are the exclamation point to a phenomenal day.

Day Four

This morning we have crab benedict for breakfast. It’s the Captain’s favorite. After getting underway around 8:00 am, we have a short journey as we pass by Red Bluff Bay, which features a high ridge on Baranof Island's eastern coast. The cliffs are brownish-red in hue due to heavy metals, including iron, chromium, and magnesium.

As we glide by Red Bluff, we stop to view a pod of Humpback whales and marvel at their playful antics. Time passes so quickly when we're in the company of these active giants, and suddenly it's lunchtime. OK, who's ready for a Halibut sandwich on a brioche bun? And an enticing salad of watermelon, fresh basil, and feta cheese?

Soon we’re underway. This evening’s destination is Pybus Bay. We cross Chatham Strait, continuing east through Frederick Sound. We pass by Murder Cove and beautiful Chapin Bay, along the southern shore of Admiralty Island. Small pods of transient orcas are seen along the way, showing us their large dorsal fins as they pass by. We can smell their fishy breath as they surface, spouting through their blowholes.

Dall's Porpoise

Throughout the day, we'll watch for fast-moving pods of Dall's porpoises. One group notices us, and they intercept our course heading. The porpoises joyfully ride our bow wake, darting in and out, and everyone has their iPhone in hand, filming the experience. As we continue cruising west, we're also looking for humpback whales. This time they may be lunge feeding, breaking the surface at a low angle, mouth fully open, and throat cavities expanded like an accordion to collect all the fish they can scoop up by the lunging maneuver.

The Glacier Bear arrives in Pybus Bay in the late afternoon, and we prepare for a short hike before dinner. We often catch a glimpse of brown bears fishing in nearby salmon-filled streams and rivers. With the largest concentration of nesting bald eagles globally, Admiralty Island offers many chances to see Canadian geese, trumpeter swans, pigeon guillemots, cormorants, and blue herons in the fringe habitats between the forest, muskeg, meadow, and along the shore.

The feeling while ashore is one of excitement and danger. Our guide has pepper spray, and several people carry air horns. We want to see bears up close, or do we? But it doesn't matter—tonight is not our night. No bears. Still, we jump for joy in our photos.

Arriving back at the Glacier Bear, the Chef announces that dinner is ready. We have sockeye salmon with honey, basil, and garlic glaze. Delicious. Following dinner, several people wander up to the flybridge deck and jump into the hot tub. The sound of music and happy dancers lingers into the night.

Day Five

Stellar Sea Lions

After a relaxed breakfast, Glacier Bear is underway once again. We have a long transit today to a location known as Ford’s Terror. But first, we'll pause to observe a colony of Stellar sea lions crowded onto the rocks of a small island. This idyllic setting is known as The Brothers Islands, and it's only a short sail from Pybus Bay. The males vie noisily for dominance over their harems. The sounds of grunting sea lions and screeching eagles drift across the morning calm.

We’re soon cruising once again, pointed toward the entrance to Ford’s Terror Wilderness. Two fjords provide access to the wilderness area:Tracy Arm and Endicott Arm. We plan to visit both. As we pass near Five Finger Islands Light, another fast-moving group of darting Dall's porpoises grace us with their presence. Throughout the day, we'll watch for whales, Dall's porpoises, orcas, and shorebirds, especially near Sail Island.

Ford's Terror

We have planned our day to arrive at Wood Spit at slack tide. It's the optimal time to proceed through the entrance of the Endicott Arm. Along the way, we'll be alert for drifting icebergs, as well as occasional humpback whales and orcas. And no sooner do we think it—and a pod of orcas appears near the spit. These are resident orcas, and they are feasting on the salmon in the whirlpools caused by the significant volume of water moving in and out of Endicott Arm.

We pass the Sumdum Islands, cast aside centuries ago in the wake of the retreating Dawes Glacier, and anchor just outside of Ford’s Terror in the early evening. One mesmerizing waterfall after another enters our view, cascading down the side of the mountains and cliffs. Glacier Bear slowly glides through the water, hugging oh-so-closely to the steep granite walls. We settle into a small cove nestled near Ford's Terror, surrounded by massive ridges cloaked in mist-covered rainforest. It’s an idyllic paradise. 

Our evening anchorage provides an excellent opportunity for a quiet paddle in the turquoise-blue water and a tasty dinner of Black Cod. We're swinging slowly in front of a delightful waterfall. Black bears often visit the area near our anchorage, grazing on the abundance of berries in the meadows and fishing for salmon in the streams. With each passing day, wonder and amazement build. Such anticipation for each unfolding day. What's in store for tomorrow?

Day Six

Today will be an action-filled day! An early morning departure takes us deep into the Endicott Arm, a narrow fjord that twists and turns through towering mountains. Massive glaciers have carved their way through these coastal mountains. Waterfalls cascade thousands of feet off the granite mountains, and one looks like stair-steps. Sapphire-blue icebergs serenely float by in the murky emerald green water. We'll continue to the Dawes Glacier, at the ice-choked end of the fjord. Extraordinarily blue and beautiful, this glacier is famous for its active calving, and we'll linger at the face of the glacier, hoping to witness gigantic chunks of ice breaking away.

Endicott Arm

We'll paddle through iceberg-laden waters using drysuits for this paddle. We'll have a fitting while underway to our destination. Today we'll also need warmer clothes, including jackets and hats. After all, there are icebergs in the water—safety first!

While paddling among the icebergs, we’re able to observe the antics of dozens of harbor seals hauled out on the ice. The glacier continues rumbling and thundering. Like the explorers here before us, the majesty and awe of this ice-carved landscape have etched themselves into our memories. If time and conditions permit, we may hike up a newly-formed valley on the north side of the fjord, recently uncovered by the receding North Dawes Glacier. The icy glacial outwash river divides a meadow and scree slope and features a giant waterfall. Black bears commonly come down to the meadow to graze. We'll take in the magnificent vistas and listen for the mournful howl of wolves.

Sometime in the early afternoon, we'll reverse directions. We'll proceed past Ford's Terror, one of the most spectacular destinations in Alaska. The currents build exceptionally quickly at Ford's Terror, and standing waves would block our escape. Hence the name "Ford's Terror." An early surveyor of the area (Ford) described the standing waves in chilling terms.

Sanford Cove

Although it’s late afternoon, we still have one more destination to visit, and it’s a beauty! We depart Ford’s Terror proceed for an hour to Sanford Cove, near the Sumdum Islands. Sanford Cove is the abandoned site of the mining community of Dumdum. Nothing remains of the town, other than a few pilings. This prime salmon-spawning habitat lures brown bears to the area. Black bears are on the prowl, too, feasting on abundant berries.

We hike along the bank of tiny Sanford Creek, through an old-growth Sitka spruce and Douglas fir forest, and discover a stunning waterfall, illuminated by the late afternoon light in a remarkable grotto of ferns and mosses. It's unbelievable, and it's the perfect location for (you guessed it) another group photo!

And suddenly it's 6:00 pm. Where did the day go? We still have to cruise to our evening anchorage in No Name Cove. Not a problem; we'll have dinner while we're underway. And what a spread! Halibut, risotto, and asparagus. With boysenberry pie and ice cream for dessert.

We arrive at No Name Cove around 8:00 pm. It's a beautiful evening, with many boats on anchor, nestled snuggly within the cove. As the sun slowly slips behind the mountains, music and dancing sounds emanate from the general area of the hot tub. It's party time!

Day Seven

After a relaxed breakfast, Glacier Bear is underway once again. The scenery changes dramatically as we slowly slip by the granite cliffs enclosing Tracy Arm. Like Endicott Arm, Tracy Arm is also a narrow fjord that winds its way through towering mountains. The mountains here seem more barren, evidence that this fjord was carded more recently than Endicott Arm. Fewer waterfalls are cascading off the granite mountains, although they are still spectacular. Hundreds of icebergs serenely float by in the blue-green water.

Tracy Arm

We'll continue as far as we can toward the Sawyer Glacier, at the ice-choked end of the fjord. This glacier is more massive than the Dawes Glacier. We depart the safety of Glacier Bear, team up with our paddling partners, and paddle closer to the face of the glacier, hoping to witness active calving underway. It's an exciting world of ice, and we glide forward cautiously. Our guide Michelle sets distance parameters for us, keeping us well away from the danger zone. As massive chunks of ice break away from the face of the glacier, we marvel at their size and impact. Eventually, the water volume that they displace builds into a series of rolling waves, and we drop down to our knees and ride it out safely.

Our journey is nearing completion. We want to remain as long as possible in this magical world, and the Captain understands our emotions. After all, he's a waterman, a surfer, and a paddleboarder! After a couple of spectacular paddling hours among the smaller icebergs, we gather one last time—this time directly in front of a gigantic iceberg, for a final group photo. And it's a keeper!

Now it’s time to begin the final journey home. We board the Glacier Bear and turn back towards civilization. Our evening destination is Taku Harbor State Marine Park, a natural, bowl-shaped harbor that was once home to a significant salmon cannery. The 700-acre marine park is located on the eastern shore of Stephens Passage, about 22 miles southeast of Juneau. The harbor is a night anchorage for commercial fishing boats and small tour ships. 

We’ll explore the small cabins and abandoned building in Taku Harbor and gear up for a quiet, reflective paddle inside the safe, protected waters. It has been a fantastic week of new friends, new challenges, and unparalleled scenery on our nearly 400-mile journey. Tonight, we'll celebrate the many memories we have shared.

Day Eight

Downtown Juneau

Our eight-day adventure concludes today. This morning we’ll cruise back to the comforts of Juneau. We're heading north through Stephens Passage, and we’ll be docking right where we started, at Aurora Harbor in downtown Juneau. We plan to arrive no later than noon, so if you need to catch an afternoon flight, you'll make it to the airport in plenty of time.
The Chef prepares a salmon quiche and lots of tasty goodies. We'll enjoy breakfast while watching a slideshow of the week's highlights on the television above the buffet. It has been a fantastic week, and for many, it's still sinking in.

Juneau's scenic community, wedged between forested mountains and the waters of Alaska's Inside Passage, is home to 32,500 people, making it the third-most populous city in Alaska (after Anchorage and Fairbanks). There's plenty to see while you're in Juneau, especially in the historic downtown district. You'll be able to catch an Alaska Airlines flight today or morrow from Juneau, with connections to Seattle. If you're staying in town tonight, join the crew for Happy Hour at McGivney's Sports Bar and Grill on the main level of Four Points by Sheraton.